Chapter 163 The development of the collar (please order!)
“Hey, you’re a rip-off guy.”
Push the door open and see Little John carrying two cups of coffee. He opened the glass door of Xiangyang's office and said angrily: "Fortunately, Sarah is not as caring as you."
Xiangyang sneered, "Give me the card and coffee."
"Haha," Little John smiled disdainfully. He came to the desk and put down the coffee. He reluctantly took out Xiangyang's VISA credit card from his pocket and handed it to the other party, "Here it is, who cares."
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"That's best."
Xiang Yang quickly took the card back and put it on the table.
“Stingy guy.” Little John rolled his eyes at Xiang Yang, took out a stack of sketches he had designed from his wallet, stamped it on his VISA credit card, and said:
“Take a look. , is there any problem with the design? I worked overtime to draw it up.
That’s all.”
"It's rare."
Xiang Yang sighed with emotion. After taking the drawings, he flipped through a few sketches of men's clothing designed by Little John and commented:
"Not bad, it suits me very well. Aesthetics and clothing requirements at that time."
"It's just not bad!" Little John was speechless. After taking a sip of coffee, he tapped the table with his finger and said, "Please take a closer look. That Peter Pan collar is very artistic, okay?”
“Okay.” Xiangyang rolled his eyes at Little John.
It’s just a Peter Pan collar, it’s not enough to show off.
In order to prove his confidence, Xiang Yang also took out his work from his design sketch. The collar of the plain white dress also had a Peter Pan collar.
“You are cheating!”
Seeing Xiang Yang’s sketch, Little John was very unconvinced.
When it comes to collars, Xiangyang naturally thinks of the ‘left collar and right gusset’ engraved in Chinese culture.
As for Chinese collars, with the integration of different dynasties and different cultures, the curved collars, round collars, straight collars, stand collars, bare collars, and lapels that have been born one after another are not as important as the earliest cross collars.
Because it started in the Yin and Shang Dynasties, the "left collar and right collar", that is, cross collar, is an important feature of Chinese national costumes.
It originates from the large placket at that time, also called the oblique placket, which required the left placket to cover the right placket and the neckline to extend to the right. During the same period, Chinese clothing also had a double placket. The meaning of duplex placket means that this is The left and right lapels are parallel to each other, but if they intersect (cross-cross), the left collar must cover the right collar.
Whether it is oracle bone inscriptions, bronze inscriptions, small seal script, or regular script, the word "clothes" for clothes evolved from this image of handing over collars.
With the integration of cultures and the development of fabrics, during the Han and Jin Dynasties, Qu Ling began to appear on the historical stage.
It has a neckline that hugs the neck and looks like a turtleneck at first glance.
Some people speculate that the round collar common in Hanfu culture evolved from the curved collar, but in fact, as early as the Shang Dynasty, the round collar and the cross collar appeared at the same time.
It has obvious class divisions. During the Shang Dynasty, the middle and upper classes wore cross-collar tops, while slaves wore round-neck tops.
Like the curved collar in the Han and Jin Dynasties, it gradually evolved into inner clothing. It was not until the Sui and Tang Dynasties that the round collar robe became popular and became the official uniform of the Song and Ming Dynasties.
During the same period, reverse collars appeared on Chinese clothing. This style of women's clothing only appeared in paintings, and the unearthed objects only appeared on men's clothing. If clothes with this kind of neckline have their necklines closed when they are laid flat, there is no gap in the middle, and the top of the neckline is triangular, it is also called a joint collar.
Clothing with joint collars appeared more often in the Ming Dynasty. During the same period, there was also a very delicate collar called square collar.
Square collar and stand-up collar are the most distinctive collar styles of the Ming Dynasty. Queen Wanli’s Baiziyi has a square collar. It and stand-up collar basically appear on cardigans. The stand-up collar can be folded down due to the size. It also became a lapel.
As for the bare collar, it was a 'limited edition' during the Tang Dynasty. It had two necklines, U-shaped and W-shaped. The W-shaped collar was also called a 'chicken heart collar'. Like it, during the Tang Dynasty The lapels also have obvious characteristics of Hu clothes. Unlike the stand-up collars of the Ming Dynasty, the lapels of the Tang Dynasty were accompanied by exquisite patterns.
It is different from the traditional Chinese collar with a history of more than 3,000 years.
The history of European collars. Before the Renaissance, European clothes were more of an 'open' design.
It was not until around the 15th century (the end of the Renaissance) that Europeans began to figure out how to wrap their chests, so the earliest shirts appeared, a shirt between underwear and a vest, or a vest.
Early shirt collars, like lotus sleeves, were standard equipment for the upper class and the aesthetics of that era.
Queen Elizabeth’s exaggerated RUFF (also called ruff collar) is the most representative product. It is a pleated collar that is used by both gentlemen and ladies.
From this point on, European collars began to evolve.
The more famous and still used ones are Barrymore, Buster Brown, shawl collar, fake collar, private school collar, clergyman collar, sailor collar, ruffle collar, Van Dyke, etc. What Little John calls a Peter Pan collar.
Strictly speaking, the Peter Pan collar is a variation of the Buster Brown collar.
The two have the same wide and flat round neck, but there are some differences in size.
Yes, that’s right.
Peter Pan’s collar is round, not pointed at all. Because when the famous Broadway actor Maude Adams played Peter Pan in 1905, she wore this modified crew neck. This variant of the collar was named after Peter Pan, which naturally proved its popularity in the fashion world at that time. What a sensation it caused.
Long before this simple and elegant collar was used in women's clothing, it was more commonly used in men's suit shirts.
The "baby collar" recognized in the fashion industry refers to the Buster Brown collar. The reason why it is called this name and is linked to "baby" is because its popularity began in 1902 after the funny comic "BUSTER BROWN". Appeared again in the horror film "Rosemary's Baby". But whether it is a Peter Pan collar or a Buster Brown collar, they immediately aroused cheers from the female community after they began to be used in women's clothing.
The round and full design arc exerts a wonderful effect on women's clothing.
Whether worn outside or worn inside, it has the effect of reducing age, being cute and adding intellectual charm.
Pair it with a round-neck umbrella skirt or mini skirt, and it will give people a straight-looking boyish look. Putting it on a shirt can also remove the dull and dull sense of sight.
And we have to admit that this kind of collar is very suitable for European women with broad shoulders. The flat round collar extending along the neck line can have the greatest modification effect, making the strong back and waist exude a pure and charming feeling.
So it does make sense for Little John to say that Xiangyang is "cheating" to some extent.
"I have said before that there is nothing to design for men's clothes." Xiangyang jokingly put Little John's sketch aside and said with a smile, "As for what you drew, I don't have to use my brain. , just make two strokes and it will come out.
And more importantly." Xiang Yang said, paused, and glanced at Little John.
"What's the key?" Little John suppressed his anger and asked.
“Tsk, tsk, tsk.” Xiangyang smacked his lips helplessly and said, “The key is that after I draw this thing, I’m embarrassed to show it to others, let alone point at it to make money like you. ."
"Just wait for me."
Faced with Xiang Yang's humiliation, the aggrieved Little John picked up his design, threw it away and left quickly. Xiangyang's office.
When he came to the office area and stood in front of his desk, he dropped his sketch on the desk with a bang. With one sound, Sarah, who was not far from him, could feel the anger on his body.
"What's wrong with you two?" Sarah spoke first.
"It's nothing." Little John took a deep breath and comforted himself: The boss must be generous. The boss must be generous
After a moment of recovery, the smile appeared on the little boy again. On John's face, he glanced sideways at Sarah and said:
"When you help Xiang Yang find information, don't forget to prepare a few ostrich feather headdresses."
"Ah, If you don’t remind me, I will forget it.”
Sarah was stunned when she heard this, and then understood.
During the brief exchange between the two downstairs, Sarah had already learned from Little John that Xiang Yang was preparing the costume design for "Downton Park", so he arranged for her to find some information on accessories from the Victorian period.
In England, for a long time after the end of World War II, when women entered the palace to see the Queen of England, they had to wear an ostrich feather headdress on their head.
If you are not familiar with the etiquette of European aristocrats, few people will pay attention to the important matching of women except wigs.
Although Xiangyang did not arrange for her to do this work, Little John’s reminder will undoubtedly make her performance more outstanding, so Sarah immediately showed a knowing smile and thanked:< br>
"Thank you."
"You're welcome, I'll remind you if there's anything else you need." Little John raised his lips and thought proudly: You and that stupid ostrich inside Same, no, you are much more cost-effective than him.
No need to pay wages, just a cup of coffee, haha.
"Okay, thank you for helping me," Sarah said with a smile: "To be honest, I'm quite worried that I can't do it well."
For Little John, the entire office Everyone knows that unless he puts his mind on his own work, you can trust him for anything else.
However, his shortcomings are obvious.
But as long as you get used to it, you will be very comfortable getting along with them.
"Handbag, a short strap made of beads, worn on the hand. At that time, the British aristocratic ladies did not carry any money with them, and they would send the bill directly home when they bought something, just like It’s like we swipe a credit card.”
Seeing that Sarah was listening very seriously, Little John naturally showed off his knowledge, “There are also white socks. The socks at that time were all colored. Just as charming as black silk.
When you have time, you can go to the museum and look at the paintings of that period. It will be of great help to you. ”
"Okay, thank you." Sarah smiled and thanked her again.
After being thanked by Sarah, Little John scratched his hair and said, "How about I treat you to lunch at noon and treat it as your reward."
" Why don't I ask you to do it? After all, I can learn a lot by helping you."
"Hey, why are you so polite?" Little John said with a smile, "As long as it's not too much, he'll come. Pay the bill."
After that, Little John took out Xiangyang's VISA card from under his draft and said proudly.
Upon hearing what Little John said, Sarah nodded, "Well, let me think about it."
"If you want something expensive, we don't have to be polite to Xiang, haha."
This chapter involves There are a lot of clothing elements essentials, I will post the pictures as soon as possible, thank you.
(End of this chapter)