Chapter 463 Enlightenment
Kang Shude didn't care what Ning Weimin thought about it, and let him digest it by himself and continue teaching.
“Up above the restaurant is the restaurant. The restaurant is also called a restaurant or a stir-fry restaurant. It is a mid-level position in the catering industry. In most cases, it is named after 'ju' or 'zhai'. The biggest difference between it and a restaurant is not only that there are more rooms and the space is larger, but also that each restaurant has its own unique flavor and must have one or two signature dishes. In the past, there was a saying in Beijing that they were all "eight restaurants". It is a relatively famous mid-range restaurant. There are also Sha Guo Ju, Liu Quan Ju and Meishi Zhai. "
"The restaurant specializes in small dishes and tables of banquets, so it generally has private rooms and restaurants. In addition, in order to attract customers, there will be words such as 'Seasonal snacks, casual drinks, four seasons delicacies, famous snacks from the north and south' on the front door."
"Needless to say, open a restaurant. The profit of a restaurant is naturally much higher than that of a restaurant. So in order to attract more sophisticated customers, of course, you need a good and lively location, such as Dashilan Street, Meishi Street, the Polishing Factory, and the Meat Market on both sides of Qianmen Street. .”
"Back then, things like Houdefu, Jinguchun, Xinghuachun, Zuiqionglin, Xiaoyoutian, Enchengju, Yuexiangzhai, Nanweizhai, Bianyifang, and Judequan were all gathered together. There are restaurants of this level near us, and many of them have exotic flavors. For example, the ones with the word "spring" can be said to be southern restaurants. There are also "Bada Chun" in the capital, and in the past, wealthy families often called them "chun". Small markets, small restaurants, small restaurants.”
“As for places that are higher than restaurants and serve the upper class, there is no need. Of course, the restaurant is named after "Lou". The "Eight Buildings" in our capital were the most famous eight restaurants. As for the difference between restaurants and restaurants, there are three main points. First, the location is better and the house is larger. . The second is that there are fewer open seats and more private seats. The third is that the quality of the restaurant’s dishes is higher and more complete.” Just under the big front door, Cuihua Building is almost visible from the street. Naturally, it is not a bungalow like most ordinary restaurants. There are scattered seats on the first floor and all the seats on the second floor. There are more banquets sold by the table than in mid-range restaurants.”
“As for the dishes, that is the biggest difference. Each major restaurant must have a famous chef. Specialties such as the cloud-shaped bear paws from Dongxing House, the braised sea cucumber from Tai Feng House, the braised purple abalone with cabbage from Xinfeng House, the big crab from Zhengyang House, the grilled prawns from Chunming House, and the stir-fried snails from Donghua House. , Stir-fried squid from Tongchun Building, Immortal Whole Duck from Yuebin Building, Bosan Dan from Huiyuan Building, Sizuo Fish from Zhimei Building, Braised Fish Breast from Wuhe Building, Fried Shredded Eel from Longyuan Building, Cuihua Lou's casserole with fish lips...is made of high-quality materials, but also requires unique skills that are difficult for others to imitate."
"That's not all, the key is that the restaurant still has some unwritten rules. In addition to constantly updating the 'seasonal dishes' as the seasons change, such as pheasant neck (a kind of leek) in spring, pancake pancake, yellow croaker, prawns in late spring and early summer, and steamed anchovies in summer. Lotus seeds, crystal jelly, walnuts, lotus root, and water chestnuts. In addition to the river crabs with seven points and eight balls in autumn, the chrysanthemum pots and assorted pots in winter, and the southern fried meatballs and rice noodles and meat during the Chinese New Year, all major restaurants must also have them. One ability - to provide more than 50 general dishes to guests for banquets or catering at any time. ”
"I don't know if I can remember them all, but I'll just give you a rough idea. There are braised shark's fin, braised agarwood, clear soup with white fungus, potted mandarin fish, hibiscus chicken fillet, five fillet fish, olive fish fillet, and milk soup. Vegetables, (Nonnaiko) yam, soft fried pork belly, braised north and south, crystal elbow, honey-cured lotus seeds, fried double crisp, roasted sea cucumber with green onions, sea cucumber and crab noodles, eight-treasure roasted pig, shredded yam, chicken cauliflower, pot-roasted cabbage, Fried tripe, soft fried duck loin, fried shrimp balls, soft fried chicken, fried gizzard liver, braised green clams, ham slices, fried mushrooms, fried squid, soft fried tenderloin, braised duck strips, braised three winter dishes, braised three delicacies, Braised assorted vegetables, braised shrimp, braised claw tips, shrimp and winter bamboo shoots, braised fish fillet, braised eel, carp in sauce, braised fish fillet, braised chicken, braised meat pie, braised pork slices with cabbage, braised fat duck, three slices of Oriental , Fried Chicken with Golden Pot Stickers, Straw Hat Pigeon Eggs, Mushroom Soup, Abalone Soup, Fruit Soup, Chicken Ball Soup, Braised Winter Bamboo Shoots, Mushroom Crispy Rice, Breaded Shrimp..."
Good guy! As soon as the old man's mouth-like menu came out, Ning Weimin was almost dumbfounded.
Especially when he was listening, he counted on his fingers...
Be good! This is not more than fifty kinds.
So the admiration comes completely from the heart, and the thumbs-up is completely true.
"Master, you are so awesome! Can you remember so many dishes? You... this is as good as the cross talk "Reporting the Name of the Dish". You are really a good eater! To be honest, As for the common dishes you mentioned, I have never heard of many of them, let alone eaten them..."
Unexpectedly, Kang Shude shook his head frequently and laughed.
"Hey, what kind of eater am I? In fact, I have never eaten many dishes. The reason why I can remember it is because I used to follow Mr. Song and be his long-term follower. This It’s one of my errands.”
“The real boss is Mr. Song. Since he always has to go out to socialize, Mr. Song often has to book a table or order a catered meal. Just ask me to run errands. After dealing with the restaurant for a long time, I naturally have to remember these things so that Mr. Song can use them as a reference when ordering a table and choosing dishes."
"So I. He is a gourmet in words. When it comes to eating, he only eats a lot. Of course, after all, he often gets a lot of credit from Mr. Song. When we were having guests, I went around the kitchen and whatever was left went into my mouth.”
"There are also the folded baskets left on the table. I have tasted all those good things. Even if I go out for a banquet, the chicken and duck racks and broth provided by the kitchen can at least take care of me. And with the money I earn, I can eat out. It’s a small restaurant with local flavor. My consumption level is basically lower than that of ordinary restaurants. I’m just confused, kid.”
Ning Weimin suddenly realized, but it’s still the same. Still have to praise.
"That's not easy. You are like a walking dictionary for Qinxing in the capital. Mr. Song may know many famous dishes and know a lot about them, but when it comes to these big things, The business conditions of the Big and Small Villages may not be as good as yours.”
Kang Shude was happy again, but this time he was really tickled.
"You are a good talker, and you really know how to say nice things. But there is some truth in what you say. Who is Mr. Song? A person who does big things and a person who talks about fun will naturally not Pay more attention to these worldly things.”
"What he cares about when eating is the origin of the dishes, the texture of the ingredients, the cooking techniques, and the socializing at the dinner party. He is diligent about the little things inside and how the restaurant is run. He has no time to care."
“We would also have dinner together at the same table, either when it was a special season or when he would take me to a small restaurant when something happened to make him happy. Often at this time, he would teach me how to taste food and wine. But if he has to go out of town to do something, he has to rely on me to have a meal at a restaurant or a teahouse on the way back, or to buy some snacks to drink with him. "
This last sentence mentions it. Ning Weimin couldn't help but be touched by the level, and he thought about his own affairs.
After being stunned for a moment, he chased after her and asked out the doubts in his heart.
"Old man, what you are talking about today is every word, and it has given me a lot of insights. But I heard you talk so far, although there are different levels from small to large, this restaurant is already enough It's high-end. We've already mentioned bear paws, sea cucumbers, shark's fins, and bird's nests. How can this restaurant be more advanced than shark's fin? Compared with a restaurant, what other major difference can there be..."
"Haha." Kang Shude laughed immediately after hearing this, "Okay, I haven't forgotten my own important things. You are asking me to make fun of you. Come on, I won't give you any excuses. I have laid the groundwork for you. It’s time for us to see the truth. It’s actually very simple. What’s the difference between a restaurant and a restaurant? "
"Pomp?" Ning Weimin locked his eyes. eyebrow.
“Yes!” Kang Shude confirmed again and then explained in detail.
“The reason why a restaurant is about pomp and circumstance is mainly because a banquet is different from a banquet, and a banquet is different from a banquet. What you eat at home is called homely food, and the emphasis is on smoothness, comfort and intimacy. In restaurants and restaurants Eating at a restaurant is called a casual banquet, and the focus is on the taste and having a good time drinking, talking about current affairs, official matters, learning, or building up feelings. Eating at a restaurant is focused on spectacle, etiquette, communication, and a sense of ritual, and that is called an official banquet. , which is the so-called banquet today."
Ning Weimin's eyes suddenly lit up when he said these words, and he finally understood the meaning of the old man's words. Just listen to Kang Shude continue to speak.
“Fanzhuangzi is the highest level and the largest restaurant in the restaurant. Most of them are marked by the suffix 'tang', and are called 'tang'-sized restaurants. There are one of the 'eight halls' in the capital. Said. Restaurants like this usually have spacious courtyards with bright and spacious rooms, and the courtyards are clean and quiet. They often have gardens, stages or theaters where you can listen to plays and visit."
"Why. Why do you need such a big place? Because everyone who comes to the restaurant to entertain guests will have a set of formal banquets. Most of them are for birthdays, full moons, weddings and funerals, group worship, or even spring drinks, etc. Ten tables, hundreds of tables, at least ten tables and eight tables, for receptions, farewells, etc., at least there are only three or two tables."
"All the utensils in the restaurant are used to show solemnity. It is very particular. The tables and chairs must have exquisite table surrounds and chairs, and the bowls, plates, and tea sets must be made of fine porcelain, and even the tableware should be more complete than in a restaurant. There are not only chopsticks, spoons, but also knives and forks. . The knife is for eating barbecue. If the chef does it for you, it is not necessary. Unlike Western forks, Chinese forks are thin and straight, made of silver and copper, and are specially used for eating fruits and snacks. , no chopsticks allowed.”
“Almost all the dishes at Fanzhuangzi are high-quality dishes, and the cooking time does not matter at all. And there are many kinds of dishes. You can make it in one pot and put it into a bowl right away. You can also make it a day in advance and steam it right when you eat it. The only thing that matters to the customers is the quantity and appearance. ”
"If we talk about the serving procedures, it's like four fresh fruits, four dried fruits, and four cold meats. Ordinary banquets can be canceled or reduced as appropriate, but the official banquet is different. You must make up this number. That's called a table dish. And according to the The rule is that the twelve plates must be placed at the top for the guests to take their seats. After the banquet begins, there are usually four dishes to serve with wine, including stir-fried chicken, braised shrimps, fried kidneys, and stir-fried kidneys. Fish fillet or something. But it must be hot, and no soup is allowed, so no bowl, only a seven-inch plate."
"The last 'Four Seas' is the main course for the official banquet. As the saying goes, it is "delicates from the mountains and seas". For example, bird's nest in clear soup, shark's fin with osmanthus, eight-treasure duck, sea cucumber roasted with green onion, fish maw with white sauce, rock sugar and white fungus, etc. If there is bird's nest, it will be agarwood mat. If there are both, it is a swallow-fin mat. If there are duck and shark fins, it is a duck-fin mat. However, it is said that the number is from four to one. The most important thing is the salty dishes. There must be more sweet dishes than salty dishes at most.”
“In addition, the sea bowl is the main ingredient, and the stew bowl is the supplement. Wide, seasonal and water dishes are available, such as braised shredded chicken, braised fish maw, braised peas, braised duck feet, braised winter bamboo shoots, braised wild rice, crab roe, sugar-roasted chestnuts, etc. Each dish is three to four inches in size. Bowls are not allowed. You can use eight, six, or four. The important thing is not to serve it alone, but to accompany each sea bowl with two or four stewed bowls. The dishes are the same. If the sea bowl is sweet, the braised bowl must also be salty. "
"By now, we have almost finished drinking and eating food. The guests are hungry, so rice and noodles are always served in two dishes, but the ingredients and methods can be anything, including steaming, frying, boiling, or baking. Dongpo meat, lion's head, braised three slices, and braised fried tofu are meant for eating, so they are also called meals as soon as these dishes are served, which is the end of the banquet process. This is the end of the standard official banquet. "
"It is worth mentioning that due to the nature of this banquet, there are also cold Zhuangzi and hot Zhuangzi. There is a storefront but it is not open on weekdays. There are no fixed chefs or waiters, and there is not even furniture or countertops. After the guests reserve the size and date of the banquet, they will temporarily hire a "Kouzi Chef", and the leader of Kouzixing will take care of everything. Needless to say, Leng Zhuangzi adopts such a business strategy only in remote places with inconvenient transportation. ”
"Rezhuangzi is a good location. It is open every day and has fixed chefs and waiters. In addition to hosting large banquets, a restaurant or some single rooms are often prepared to entertain scattered customers. Therefore, Rezhuangzi is also It will be like a big restaurant, with some unique specialties, such as Juxiantang’s fried ring bells with double sauce, Fushoutang’s green-covered shark’s fin, and Tonghetang’s Tianti duck feet.”
“In short, those of the past. The customers that big restaurants focus on are government departments, dignitaries, celebrities, big businessmen, etc. The food has a sense of ceremony and dignity, and must be decorated with flowers and extravagance to create a wealthy and decent scene. But if you really want to eat delicious food, it is not suitable to go to restaurants. On the contrary, small restaurants and restaurants have this advantage, and you can see hot dishes and delicate dishes."
"Speaking of which, I still remember. Mr. Song once spent 400 yuan to treat a friend to a 108-course banquet at Peiping Fangshan, which was exactly like the menu eaten by Emperor Qianlong. Mr. Song was like to me at that time. To put it this way, it cannot be said that it is not delicious, but the taste of each dish is not much different. It is probably because the imperial chefs always use broth and mushrooms for seasoning. Although the taste is extremely fresh, they do this for every dish, and there are What does it mean? The only surprising thing is that they can write words on the dishes. The presentation and shape are extremely beautiful, but there is no doubt that they like to write words on the dishes. The means are much better."
Kang Shude's words lingered in Ning Weimin's mind for a long time.
His mind was spinning and digesting, and he was completely out of his mind.
After an unknown amount of time, he let out a long breath, and his heart suddenly became clear, just like the clear blue sky and white clouds outside.
Not only did he finally know which address he chose was the most suitable.
It was even like an enlightenment, and I understood a lot of extra things.
For example, why is it that No. 87, Tiantan North Road, is used to open Yushan Restaurant, but it cannot cover Beihai Fangshan and Tingli Restaurant?
In the end, it almost reached the point of barely surviving.
He has now figured out that it was not for any other reason than that there was not enough pomp and space.
In the past, Yushan operated the restaurant as a restaurant, and its foothold was actually focused on individual customers and casual dining.
But the taste of the dishes in the restaurant is inherently inferior to those in restaurants.
Do you have any fine dishes? Do you have any hot dishes? Do you have a unique skill?
What you have is just the fabricated gimmick of the "Manchu-Han Banquet" and the historical and cultural background of a formal official banquet.
However, these advantages were not brought into play and were all suppressed.
And why are those two time-honored brands, selling roast duck and selling steamed buns, already famous all over the world, declining day by day and becoming more and more bleak?
That’s because one is just like an ordinary restaurant, and the other is even the foundation of a restaurant.
They actually betrayed their customer base with this little skill and insisted on making money from the restaurant, or even the restaurant.
Of course that is wishful thinking! Virtue is not worthy of its place!
Don’t blame anyone but yourselves for confusing your positioning and forgetting your roots!
(End of this chapter)